Wondering how to overwinter begonia plants without losing them to frost? Don’t worry—you’re not alone! As the temperatures start to drop and gardens go quiet, many plant lovers panic about what to do with their begonias. The good news? With just a little prep, your begonias can chill (literally) through winter and come back strong in spring.
Let’s dive into everything you need to know to make sure your begonias survive the cold and thrive again next season.
Meet the Begonias: Tuberous vs. Fibrous
Before you start digging or dragging pots indoors, you’ll need to figure out what kind of begonia you have. It makes a big difference in how you care for it over winter.
- Tuberous begonias grow from a thick, fleshy root called a tuber. In the fall, they go fully dormant—basically, they sleep through the winter.
- Fibrous begonias, on the other hand, have regular roots and often keep growing (slowly) even when it’s cold. These can often be overwintered as houseplants.
Not sure what you’ve got? Tuberous begonias usually have bigger, showier flowers and chunkier stems. Fibrous types are more compact and often sold as bedding plants.
When to Start Overwintering
Timing is everything. You don’t want your plants to get hit with a surprise frost before you take action.
Watch for:
- Nighttime temps dipping below 50°F (10°C)
- Yellowing leaves
- Weather reports warning of frost
Even a light frost can damage begonias, especially those in containers or above-ground beds. So don’t wait too long—when in doubt, get them out!
How to Overwinter Tuberous Begonias (The Sleepy Type)
Tuberous begonias need to come out of the soil and be stored indoors during winter. Here’s how to do it step-by-step:
Step 1: Dig Up the Tubers
Use a trowel or small shovel to carefully dig around each plant. Don’t yank it out! You want to avoid damaging the begonia tubers, which are your ticket to next year’s blooms.
Step 2: Trim and Clean
Snip off the stems and leaves close to the base. This is part of your garden cleanup—removing extra plant material helps avoid rot and mildew. Gently brush off excess soil, but don’t wash them with water. Moisture = mold risk.
Step 3: Dry Them Out
Place your tubers on newspaper or a tray in a dry, well-ventilated space for about a week or two. This drying period helps them go fully dormant and prepares them for storage. Avoid humid spots—think garage shelf or sunny windowsill.
Step 4: Store in a Cool, Dry Place
Once dried, tuck your tubers into a breathable container—like a paper bag or box filled with sawdust, peat moss, or even dry vermiculite. Store them in a basement, garage, or similar space that stays above freezing but under 60°F. Too warm and they might sprout too early; too cold and they might freeze.
Check on them once a month. Toss any mushy or moldy ones and let them sleep until spring.
How to Overwinter Fibrous Begonias (The Light Sleepers)
These plants don’t go completely dormant, so you’ll treat them like houseplants over winter.
Step 1: Bring Them Inside
Before frost hits, bring your potted plants indoors. If they’ve been in the ground, dig them up and pot them in fresh soil. Check for pests first—nobody wants to bring bugs into the house!
Step 2: Find the Right Spot
Place them near a bright window where they’ll get plenty of light. Humidity matters too, so avoid dry, drafty spots. Mist the leaves occasionally if your home is extra dry.
Step 3: Adjust Your Watering
In winter, your plants aren’t growing as fast. Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering. And skip the fertilizer—they’re on winter break!
Keep an eye out for root rot or mildew. If the leaves start to yellow or get mushy, it may be too wet. Trim dead leaves and flowers to keep things tidy.
Common Winter Woes (and How to Fix Them)
Even with your best efforts, a few problems might pop up. Here’s what to watch for:
- Overwatering: Most common mistake. Less is more in winter.
- Mold or Mildew: Poor airflow or excess moisture can cause this. Trim and space out plants.
- Frost Damage: Always move begonias inside before the first hard frost!
- Shriveled Tubers: If stored tubers look dry and wrinkled, lightly mist or rehydrate them in spring.
Springtime: The Big Comeback
When winter’s on its way out and temps are staying above 50°F, it’s time to wake up your begonias.
- Tuberous begonias: Pull them out of storage, inspect for rot, and pot them in fresh soil indoors to get a head start. Water lightly and give them warmth and light.
- Fibrous begonias: Slowly reintroduce them to outdoor conditions. Start with some shade and work up to full light.
Soon, you’ll see new spring growth—a sure sign your plant made it through the cold!
Why Overwintering Is Totally Worth It
Overwintering begonias might sound like work, but trust us—it’s rewarding. Here’s why:
- Save money: No need to rebuy plants every year.
- Less waste: You’re giving your plant a second chance at life.
- Plant pride: There’s something awesome about seeing a begonia you saved burst into bloom again.
Plus, you’ll look and feel like a total gardening pro. Win-win.
Quick Tips & Final Checklist
- Know your begonia type (tuberous or fibrous)
- Act before the first frost
- Dry and store tubers in a cool place
- Keep potted begonias indoors with light and limited water
- Watch for pests, rot, and mold
- Start waking them up when spring rolls in
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I save my begonias for next year?
Dig up tuberous begonias before frost, dry them, and store them in a cool, dark place indoors. For fibrous types, bring them inside as houseplants. Water sparingly and wait for spring to replant or revive.
Can I have begonias in pots over winter?
Yes, but only if you bring the pots indoors before frost hits. Place them in a bright spot and reduce watering. Outdoor pots will freeze and likely kill the plant.
How do I know if my begonia is tuberous?
Tuberous begonias grow from thick, fleshy underground tubers and usually have large, showy flowers. The stems are often more succulent. If you lift the plant and see a swollen root mass, it’s tuberous.
